Dad’s Wine maintains a bi-monthly wine club, which delivers six bottles every two months, a mix of reds and whites, at a cost of $250 per shipment, plus tax and shipping. We favor old-world, classically-styled wines, and publish a newsletter concurrent with each shipment with descriptions of each wine.
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The Inaugural Dad’s Wine Club Box, May 2019
2015 Riesling ‘Von der Fels,’ Keller
2005 Vouvray Brut ‘Reserve,’ Foreau
2009 Riesling ‘Frederic Emile,’ Trimbach
2010 Aloxe-Corton ‘Vieilles Vignes,’ Cornu
2012 Syrah ‘Sawyer-Lindquist,’ Ringer #1
2015 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ‘Tradition,’ Bois de Boursan
The assembly of the inaugural selections in the first box of a new wine club is a humbling process. You early members have given us your trust with regard to the bottles we include, and while of course everyone’s tastes are as different as the days of the year, we will strive starting now, and going forward, to honor that trust by assembling selections that will intrigue, delight and finally supercede your expectations. Thank you for giving us the opportunity to curate for you.
We are particularly pleased with this first box, as we have dipped into our cellar in the case of nearly every selection—which is to say that only one of the wines is still available from importers or distributors. The result is a selection of six superb wines which are both ageworthy and drinking extremely well now. By sheer coincidence (except for the fact that we like to cellar riesling), there are two rieslings in this case, and they happen to be two wines considered by many people to be the most iconic and greatest reasonably-priced dry rieslings in the world. The first is the 2015 Riesling ‘Von der Fels’ ($38) from Klaus-Peter Keller, who makes wine in the Rheinhessen in Germany and whose star took off several years ago and is now racing through the galaxy. Keller is especially famous for his monumental dry Grosses Gewachs wines, which are both very expensive and increasingly rare, but his ‘Von der Fels’ is never far behind those wines in terms of quality and complexity. A somewhat similar circumstance characterizes the 2009 Riesling ‘Frederic Emile’ from Trimbach ($50). Though Trimbach’s reputation has been hewn for three or four centuries longer than Herr Keller’s (the winery was founded in 1626), the famous Alsacienne winery is also perhaps best known as a producer of some of the world’s greatest dry Rieslings. Their ‘Frederic Emile’ bottling, which is sourced from two different Grand Cru parcels near Ribeauvillé, is widely regarded as perhaps the greatest value in their offerings. This 2009 is characteristically deep and long, and is the only one of the three fantastic recent releases of ’08, ’09 and 2010 that is nearing its drinking window. These wines are famously long-lived. Speaking of which, what a treat is this fourteen year-old 2005 Vouvray Brut ‘Reserve’ from Philippe Foreau ($40), who has been the favorite maker at this address of chenin blanc-based wines for ten years and then some. There is simply nothing like Foreau’s Vouvrays, whether they be dry, sweet or somewhere in between, still or sparkling. This wine seems to us like an utterly outrageous value, with complexity that would surely rival even very good Champagne bottlings of a similar age, of course at a drastically different price.
A little trio of reds is led by a lip-smacking red Burgundy that is perhaps within a few years of full maturity. We were eager buyers several years ago of significant quantities of wines from the superlative 2010 vintage, and wines from the domaine of Edmond Cornu, in the Cote de Beaune appellation of Ladoix, have been near the top of our shopping list for years. Cornu’s wines are always beautifully proportionate and modestly restrained, which means that they tend to render excellent examples of their vintages. What a joy it is to revisit this ‘little’ 2010 Aloxe-Corton ‘Vieilles Vignes,’ ($45) sourced from fifty to eighty year-old vines, which is ample evidence for the for the advisability of letting great wine rest for a few years. Another wine which has benefitted substantially from a few years in the bottle is a wine we made as a collaboration between Heirloom Café and Bob Lindquist, who for many years and until very recently was the proprietor and winemaker of the iconic Central Coast winery called Qupé. Bob’s wines have always been favorites of ours because of how unadorned they are and because of how well they demonstrate that very great wines can be made in California without costing gobs of money. This 2012 Ringer #1 ($35), our first collaborative effort, was made from fruit from Bob’s own Sawyer-Lindquist vineyard, was very delicious when it was very young, and is now starting to stretch out and fully showcase Bob’s legendary talent. If there is one wine in the entire roster here that might be worth laying down for a few years it is perhaps the fantastic 2015 Chateauneuf-du-Pape from the great and classically-styled producer Bois de Boursan ($40). Chateauneuf has become a bit of a crapshoot in recent years because climate change has reined serious heat down on the lowlands around Orange and Avignon, and the grenache and other grapes planted there just soak up the sun and the warmth and have more often than not yielded wines of increasingly pronounced alcohol. Even in the ripe vintage of 2015 however, a grower committed to avoiding stratospheric alcohol levels can succeed, as this Bois de Boursan bottling ably demonstrates. Its cherry and garrigue smells and flavors might just transport you to the South of France, whether you open it in the next week or the next ten years.
We hope you’ll enjoy this first box, and thanks again to our original members. Best regards, Matt